Thimphu Tshechu & Autumn Colours

The flight into Paro is part of the adventure: on a clear day the Himalaya slides past the window before the plane banks between forested ridges and settles onto the valley floor. Your guide meets you outside the small terminal with a white kata scarf, the traditional Bhutanese welcome, and a private vehicle is waiting. Autumn's clear skies often make this one of the most spectacular landings of the year.

The road follows the Paro Chhu down to Chuzom, where three chortens in Bhutanese, Tibetan and Nepali style mark the meeting of two rivers, then climbs gently up the Wang Chhu to the capital. In the late afternoon, walk to the National Memorial Chorten, built in memory of the Third King, where Thimphu's elders circle clockwise, spinning prayer wheels and telling their beads — a gentle first hour in Bhutan.

Drive: Paro to Thimphu, about 1 hour
Overnight: Thimphu

The festival fills the great courtyard of Tashichho Dzong, the seat of government, with dancers, musicians and thousands of spectators. Your guide explains the meaning of each masked dance — many tell of Guru Rinpoche and the victory of wisdom over harm.

Between dances, wander the edges of the festival where stalls sell snacks and trinkets, and watch families greeting relatives they may see only once a year.

On foot at the festival
Overnight: Thimphu

Return to the festival in the morning for more dances — each day of a tshechu has its own programme, and your guide will make sure you see the most important ones.

In the afternoon, visit Buddha Dordenma on its ridge and the Motithang takin preserve, then join the evening circle of prayer at the National Memorial Chorten, busy with festival visitors from across the country.

Sightseeing by vehicle with short walks
Overnight: Thimphu

Climb out of Thimphu to the Dochula pass, about 3,100 m, crowned by the 108 Druk Wangyal chortens built by the Queen Mother. On a clear morning — autumn is the best season for it — the snow peaks of the northern border line the horizon. Take tea at the pass before the long descent through rhododendron, oak and then warmer forest into the Punakha valley, more than a thousand metres lower.

Descend into the Punakha valley at harvest time, with terraces of rice turning gold. Walk for about half an hour through the rice fields of Sopsokha to Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple linked to Drukpa Kunley, the "Divine Madman", whose unconventional teachings explain the painted phalluses on the village houses. Couples still come here to ask for the blessing of a child, and your guide will share some of the saint's more colourful stories.

Drive: Thimphu to Punakha, about 3 hours with stops
Overnight: Punakha

Visit Punakha Dzong, built in 1637–38 at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu, and the winter home of the central monk body. Then drive a short way up the valley, cross a suspension bridge and hike through the harvest fields to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, whose rooftop looks down the whole valley.

Walk across the long Punakha suspension bridge in the afternoon. If the timing is right you may see rice being cut and threshed by hand in the fields — families are usually happy to let visitors watch.

Walks: about 2–3 hours in total
Overnight: Punakha

Leave the Punakha valley after breakfast and climb back to Dochula — the view is often quite different in the other direction, and a second cup of tea at the pass is never wasted. Continue past Thimphu and down the Wang Chhu to Chuzom and the Paro valley.

In the afternoon, walk through Rinpung Dzong and over the Nyamai Zam cantilever bridge, and visit the National Museum in the old Ta Dzong watchtower above it, before browsing the craft shops of Paro town.

Drive: Punakha to Paro, about 4–4½ hours
Overnight: Paro

Paro Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, clings to a cliff about 900 m above the valley floor. Legend says Guru Rinpoche flew here on the back of a tigress in the 8th century to meditate in the cave around which the monastery was later built. The trail climbs steadily through blue pine and oak hung with prayer flags; most people take two to three hours to reach the top, and a cafeteria halfway up offers tea with a view straight across to the monastery. Ponies can carry you part of the way up.

The final section drops down hundreds of steps to a waterfall and climbs again to the gate; bags and cameras are left in lockers before you enter the temples. After the descent and a late lunch, visit Kyichu Lhakhang, said to have been founded in the 7th century by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo, with its orange trees and turning prayer wheels. A farewell dinner in Paro closes the journey.

Hike: about 5–6 hours return
Overnight: Paro

Enjoy a last breakfast with the valley outside your window. Your guide and driver accompany you to Paro airport and help with check-in for your onward flight — the farewells are often warmer than travellers expect.

Autumn is the busiest season in Bhutan — if friends want to follow in your footsteps, tell them to enquire early for flights and hotels.

Drive: hotel to Paro airport, 10–30 minutes