Heart of Western Bhutan

Your guide welcomes you at Paro airport with a white kata scarf. The road follows the Paro Chhu down to Chuzom, where three chortens in different styles mark the meeting of two rivers, then climbs gently up the Wang Chhu to the capital.

After settling into your hotel, take an easy evening walk to the National Memorial Chorten, where Thimphu's elders gather to circle and pray, then along Norzin Lam, the main street, with its famous traffic police box — a city with no traffic lights at all.

Drive: Paro to Thimphu, about 1 hour
Overnight: Thimphu

Start at Buddha Dordenma, the vast seated Buddha on the ridge above the city, then visit the Motithang preserve to see the takin, Bhutan's national animal. Continue to Changangkha Lhakhang, where parents bring newborn children to receive their names and blessings.

In the afternoon, visit the Institute for Zorig Chusum (weekdays) to watch students learning the thirteen traditional arts, and the Folk Heritage Museum, a three-storey farmhouse furnished as a family home would have been. If the day falls at the end of the week, wander the Centenary Farmers' Market beside the river, where chillies, cheese and incense are sold from every stall.

Sightseeing by vehicle with short walks
Overnight: Thimphu

Climb out of Thimphu to the Dochula pass, about 3,100 m, crowned by the 108 Druk Wangyal chortens built by the Queen Mother. On a clear morning — most likely from October to February — the snow peaks of the northern border line the horizon. Take tea at the pass before the long descent through rhododendron and then warmer forest.

Punakha lies more than a thousand metres lower, warm enough for rice and oranges. After lunch, walk for about half an hour through the rice fields of Sopsokha to Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple linked to Drukpa Kunley, the "Divine Madman", whose unconventional teachings explain the painted phalluses on the village houses. Couples still come here to ask for the blessing of a child.

Drive: Thimphu to Punakha, about 3 hours with stops
Overnight: Punakha

Cross the covered bridge into Punakha Dzong, built in 1637–38 at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu — the "male" and "female" rivers. It is the winter home of the central monk body and the place where Bhutan's kings are crowned and married. In spring the courtyards are framed by purple jacaranda.

Later, drive a short way up the valley, cross a suspension bridge and hike up through the fields to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, whose rooftop looks down the length of the Punakha valley — about an hour up. On the way back, walk across the long Punakha suspension bridge, strung with prayer flags. River rafting can be added in the right season.

Walks: about 2–3 hours in total
Overnight: Punakha

Leave the Punakha valley after breakfast and climb back to Dochula — the view is often quite different in the other direction, and a second cup of tea at the pass is never wasted. Continue past Thimphu and down the Wang Chhu to Chuzom and the Paro valley. Stop for lunch on the way, perhaps overlooking the river at Chuzom.

In the afternoon, walk through Rinpung Dzong and over the Nyamai Zam cantilever bridge, and visit the National Museum in the old Ta Dzong watchtower above it, before browsing the craft shops of Paro town. If there is time, your guide can take you to a Paro farmhouse for butter tea and a look at a traditional home, with its altar room and wooden shingled roof.

Drive: Punakha to Paro, about 4–4½ hours
Overnight: Paro

Today is the hike to Paro Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, built around the cave where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated after flying here on a tigress. The trail climbs through pine forest to a cafeteria viewpoint and on to the monastery itself; take all the time you need. Ponies can carry you part of the way up.

After lunch, visit Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the kingdom, with its orange trees and turning prayer wheels. A farewell dinner in Paro closes the journey — perhaps with a hot-stone bath first.

Hike: about 5–6 hours return
Overnight: Paro

Enjoy a last breakfast with the valley outside your window. Your guide and driver accompany you to Paro airport and help with check-in for your onward flight — the farewells are often warmer than travellers expect.

We will be in touch after you are home to hear how the journey went — and we hope, one day, to welcome you back for the festivals, the treks or the quiet valleys of central Bhutan.

Drive: hotel to Paro airport, 10–30 minutes